5. Override the type by copying and pasting the background over the old text. Overwrite any letters or numbers you need to change with the clone tool or clone stamp. Zoom in on the ID and copy the blank background next to the letters or numbers you want to change. Move the copied background image over the letters and numbers and find it, making it look as if it never existed. Before entering the new value for the scannable fake id, place a text box over any letters or numbers you need to replace.

You can enlarge and adjust existing text instead of replacing it. For example, you can convert an 8 to a 6 by punching the top of the 8 on the right. In the same way you can convert a 6 to an 8 by cloning the lower right corner of the lower shield ring and gluing it into the opening. Assuming you’re going to change an entire line of text, the result will look bad. Try to change as few text fields as possible, as the clone device in the proofreader is just shrunk to a more limited size for most ID complex bases. Check the base of any new text you enter to make sure it aligns with the different characters on the ID.

6. Change your name, birthday, code or license number. Change text fields as little as possible to limit the need to overlay text. If the subtleties don’t match the photos, chances are you don’t have many options. Change hair tone, eye tone and level to match the individual who intends to use the id card fake. If you’re only involving fake id for odd purposes, you don’t need to stress changing these subtleties. Enter the full name, not the abbreviated form. The main model for which abbreviations can be used is something like “Albert Smith Jr.”. Or “Thomas Jones III”. Use the real date of birth. If you look 20, don’t keep your date of birth as 1951.
7. Print the front and back of the ID card on thick card stock and cut out. Have several thick, matte cards weighing between 100-130 lbs (45-59 kg). Print the front and back of your fake id on similar card stock. Cut them off with scissors or a utility blade and a straight edge. Card stock weight refers to 500 sheets of a specific type of paper. The 130 is quite possibly the heaviest printer you can print at home with a standard printer. If you have a paper cutter, you can use it. This will result in sharper lines, but depending on the style of cardstock you are using, they may fray along the edges.
8. Glue the sides together and let it dry. Assuming there is, use superglue. Use a cotton swab or small nozzle attachment to apply it to the back of each half. Carefully press the two parts together, squeezing each side with your fingers and sliding from the center to the edges, smoothing each side. Place the ID under something heavy to flatten it out as it dries. Keep your fake id for 4-8 hours before touching it again.
9. Use the laminator to cover the ID. Turn on the laminator and set it to medium-low temperature. Place your ID over the opening and let it pass through the laminator. Let cool for 5-10 minutes before touching. When you eliminate it and trim too much cover, you get a scannable fake id .
   Depending on the make and model of the laminator, you may have to let it prime for a few minutes before using it. If the temperature is too high, the paste between the two layers of cardstock will dissolve. Trim the mulch with scissors or a utility blade. Since it’s so slim, it shouldn’t be difficult to keep things neat and tidy when managing the overlay.